Akihabara Update

Akihabara is the area of Tokyo famous for its electronics shops, and you can find whatever you're looking for there, whether it's the newest computer gadget or fifteen-year-old software for your Sega Mega Drive game console. Akiba is also the "Mecca" of otaku culture in the world, with hundreds of doujinshi shops, maid cafes and other companies selling products of interest to Japan's booming otaku generation. Take a stroll down the main street on a Sunday -- they close the whole street down since there's so much foot traffic -- and you'll see a spectacle like no other, with thousands of fans laughing, shopping or dancing while cosplaying their favorite anime characters, including more than a few males dressed up like female characters. Lately some less-than-savory elements have been showing up at Akiba, including up-and-coming bikini idols providing some, ahem, "fan service" for passersby with camera phones to increase their popularity, which tends to tarnish the area's image as a fun playground for nerdy types. As the fans get rowdier, the Tokyo Metropolitan Police have been increasing their patrols in the region, walking around and making grim faces at fans who look like they're about to start a "guerilla live" or sudden performance of anime karaoke along the side of the street. They've been checking the belongings of otaku shoppers, too, ostensibly to make sure they don't have any knives, which seems silly, given the extremely innocuous nature of most otaku types -- most of us wouldn't hurt a fly outside of a video game. There've been a lot of theories put forth about the crackdown on geekish activities, including that it's a lot safer to mess with the "A-boys" then, say, yakuza gangsters over in Kabuki-cho.

Innovative Uses for Vending Machines in Japan

Japan leads the world in many important areas, including sporting more vending machines than any other country in the world, with one operating machine for every 23 citizens. While there are vending machines that sell everyday items you'd expect to find, like canned drinks or Pocky, it's not hard to find machines offering frozen ice cream or 5 kg bags of rice, as well as machines that sell cigarettes and beer when you slide your drivers' license in for verification. The other day I was walking around our city trying to find a shop that would give me change for a 10,000 yen note, but I wasn't having any luck since there were no regular shops near where I was. I happened to walk past our city's Passport Center, the place where Japanese citizens in our city go to order a passport, so I ducked inside to ask if they could make change for me. The lady at the counter just shrungged, gesturing to a vending machine that stood behind me, and I knew I was out of luck: the Passport Center, like many businesses, used a vending machine that dispensed tickets that could be traded for the various services they offered. This allowed the office staff to completely avoid dealing with cash, which no doubt made their operations safer and more efficient, since all the cash was stored safely inside the ticket vending machine, which could only be opened by the armored car drivers who came to empty it every day. You also find these ticket vending machines at restaurants quite often: just insert your 500 yen, hit the button for "curry rice," and give that ticket to the waitress, who never needs to touch money herself.

Japanese Health Insurance Hell 2008

As a group, the Japanese are fortunate enough to enjoy extremely long lifespans, with the current average being 78.5 years for men and 85.5 years for women. There are many reasons for this longevity, including a healthier diet, an extremely safe society, and a tendency to build lifelong relationships that provide important support in later years. (My mother-in-law is still close friends with women she went to elementary school with six decades ago, something that's unthinkable to me.) Another reason Japanese live a long time is the health care system here, in which private institutions provide health services according to highly structured price schedules imposed by the National Health Insurance System. Currently Japan is going through "Health Insurance Hell" as various changes that kicked in April 1st continue to cause mass confusion. For starters, Japan used to offer free healthcare to everyone over the age of 75, but this has changed, and under the new system, some elderly users must pay a monthly premium. It's not clear which groups this applies to, however, and it's feared that the new system, which makes people pay more for health insurance the more often they use medical services, will keep sick people from going to the hospital. In addition, the government saw fit to change the Health Insurance Card from a large booklet to a paper-thin card, which is easily lost or thrown away by elderly Japanese.

Understanding Japanese History through Science Fiction

If you read a lot of science fiction novels, as I have, one vehicle you'll find writers using is the idea of a "great renaming" in which familiar place names are changed, usually to denote much time passing or a period of great upheaval. (For example, 5,000 years after the original Dune novel, the planet Arrakis becomes known as Rakis.) It sounds very cool and science-fictioney, and yet a "great renaming" is exactly what happened in Japan during the Meiji Reformation, when the old system of feudal domains (han) was retired in favor of a modern prefectural system with all new names. As a result, virtually every region of Japan has two names associated with it, its current one (for example, Gunma Prefecture, where J-List is based), and its old name (which is Joshu-no-kuni). The archaic names aren't official anymore, yet they're still used quite often, for example an udon restaurant might advertise "authentic Joshu noodles" to make customers associate their food with something old-fashioned and tasty. Sometimes the use of the archaic names seems to be custom-made to confuse foreigners living here. For example, the freeway that goes from Tokyo to Niigata is the Kan-etsu Freeway, which makes use of the kanji for the old name of Niigata (Echigo), something that almost no poor gaijin would be likely to know.

What Shall We Do About Summer?

My family is going through our annual "what are we going to do about summer?" decision-making process, trying to make plans for our kids to go to the U.S. Figuring out what to do with kids during summer vacation is a challenge for any parent, I'm sure, but in our case it's extra difficult due to various cultural and scheduling differences between Japan and America. First of all, summer vacation is very short in Japan, being only six weeks long, so the time we have to work with is quite limited. We like to find activities for our kids that will help them maintain their English skills, like Girl Scout Camp for my daughter and various science-related camps for my son, but choosing the right program is never easy. While I think summer should be a time for kids to relax and have new experiences at a leisurely pace, my wife always goes into kyoiku mama ("education mother") mode, insisting that anything we choose for the kids to do have serious academic value. While the idea of doing homework over the summer break is totally alien to American children, kids in Japan aren't so lucky. In addition to everything else, we've got to factor in about 20-30 hours for the mountain of homework my kids will have to work through before school starts in September.

Capitalism and Delicious Sauce called "Sauce"

Japan is a great place, and I like it a lot. The people are kind and honest, and every day is a learning experience for me, both in terms of language as well as the wider world of Japanese culture around me. Japan is a free-market country in which products can be introduced into the marketplace to create value for smart companies with good ideas, the investors who provide capital to the companies, and the consumers who get the benefits of having innovative products to choose from. However, there are some areas in which Japanese-style capitalism doesn't always function in the way that a Westerner might expect. First of all, many companies must deal with competition from an unexpected source, the Japanese government itself, which chooses to involve itself in a wide range of businesses including operating Japan's horse racing industry and a government-subsidized provider of life insurance (Kanpo) -- they even ran Japan's largest tobacco company until it was privatized in the 1980s. Last year, an investment group called Steel Partners tried to engineer a U.S.-style takeover of Bull-Dog Sauce Company, the makers of that heavenly tonkatsu sauce that's usually usually called "sauce" in Japanese. While I'm all in favor of my favorite condiment company not being bought out in a hostile merger, there is the small issue of companies being owned by the actual shareholders, and not the management of the company, who seemed bent on preserving their own positions above all else as they fought off the takeover bid. Japan is a wonderfully litigation-free country, which is certainly a good thing all around. However there are times when a functional democracy might just need a few lawyers, for example if the management of a company did something that actually harmed the investors, yet in Japan concepts like shareholder lawsuits are completely unheard of.

Coffee Jelly Time!

Starbucks Japan has a new product for the coming summer season: the Coffee Jelly Frapachino, which is a coffee frap with chilled coffee-flavored gelatin at the bottom. Although coffee jelly ("jello" to our American readers) is probably up there fermented soybeans (natto), puffer fish (fugu) and pickled squid intestines (shiokara) as something you wouldn't expect to find gaijin eating, it's actually really good and easily one of my favorite desserts in the summer. It's sold in every convenience store or supermarket , usually in the form of little plastic cups that come with a separate container of sweetened milk that you add to your coffee jelly before eating it, just like you'd do to a cup of black coffee. There are many ways to eat coffee jelly, including pouring the milk over the pristinely shaped gelatin then digging in with your spoon, but I prefer to mix my coffee jelly up first then add the milk, letting it seep everywhere before I eat it.

The History of Bento

Bento are the amazing boxed lunches from Japan that are both delicious to eat and pleasing to look at, and since J-List has brought so much bento goodness to customers all over the world, I thought I'd write about the history a bit. The origin of rice in a portable box for easy carrying began in the Heian Period (794-1185), when people would pack rice that had been cooked then dried again as well as onigiri (rice balls) for journeys. The emergence of the ornate stackable bento box (jubako) came later as a way for nobles to enjoy a beautiful meal while drinking tea and viewing the cherry blossoms in the Spring. During the Edo Period (1603-1868), a popular form of boxed lunch called maku-no-uchi bento or "between-the-acts" boxed lunch appeared, which was eaten by playgoers during intermissions at public performances, or (according to another theory) by aficionados of sumo wrestling, who would wolf down the lunches in between bouts. With the coming of trains to Japan, people needed a convenient way of taking their lunch with them, which was the beginning of ekiben or train station bento, which has blossomed into a huge industry unto itself, with each region of Japan creating bento lunches you can only buy there, making even something as commonplace as lunch something special.

 

Religion in Japan

The subject of religion in Japan is a complex one. The two main religious traditions here are Buddhism, which was introduced through the Korean Peninsula along with the kanji writing system in the 6th century; and Shinto, the naturalistic original religion of Japan which sees kami, gods or spirits, in trees, rivers and mountains. Anywhere between 63-96% of Japanese report themselves as being Buddhist, with around 3% and 1% for Shinto and Christianity, respectively. Exact numbers are difficult to pin down, though, since there's no subject more "about" (an English word the Japanese use to mean nebulous or imprecise) than religion here. Although someone's family may belong to one religion or another, nearly everyone mixes themes regularly over the course of their lives, generally turning to Shinto or Christianity for life-affirming ceremonies like weddings or baby namings and Buddhism for funerals and ceremonies that pay respect to family members who have gone on. It's quite a mish-mash, really, but somehow each group is able to coexist alongside the others without friction. If you ever have a question about religeon in Japan, feel free to ask a Japanese person about it, but be prepared for a less than satisfactory answer, as Japanese rarely think deeply about their own country and culture in the way that foreigners fascinated by the country do. One of the great achievements of modern Japanese society is that they've managed to completely separate religion from politics, and when election time rolls around, the question of what religious background a certain candidate might have isn't contemplated in the slightest. (A possible exception to this might be members of the New Komeito Party, which is affiliated with the "evangelical" Buddhist movement, Sokka Gakkai, and whose members are presumably a member of that religeon.)

On Superstitions and Lucky Days

One thing that surprised me about the Japanese was how superstitious many people here are, and there are many superstitions here that seem odd to foreigners, such as, don't cut your fingernails at night or you won't be able to be with your parents when they die, don't whistle at night or snakes will come and get you, and so on. Many of these beliefs come from Japan's unique flavor of Buddhism, which seems to be very death-oriented -- for example, it's bad luck to sleep with your head to the north (kita makura), as dead people about to be cremated are laid with their heads to the north. In this vein, there's a complex system of lucky and unlucky days according to a Buddhist calendar, with six different days that cycle throughout the month. It's good luck to get married or start construction on your home or take delivery of a car on the luckiest day (called Taian), but if you were to get married on the unlucky day (called Butsumetsu), you'd probably end up divorced and unhappy. The six days, and their kanji meanings, are Sensho ("win first"), Tomobiki ("take away with"), Senpu ("lose first"), Butsumetsu ("Buddha's Death"), Taian ("Great Calm"), and Shakkou ("Red Mouth"). Supposedly, it's lucky to do things in the morning on Sensho, but it's unlucky to do anything in the morning on Senpu -- wait til the afternoon instead on that day. Never have a funeral on Tomobiki, as the soul of the deceased will be taken away instead of staying near his loved ones, while Butsumetsu is a general unlucky day, and virtually all Japanese avoid doing important things on this day. Today (the 14th) is Taian by the way -- I hope everyone enjoys good luck today!

Is it Possible for Someone to Forget their Native Language?

Is it possible for a person to forget their native language? You wouldn't think so, but during my years of living in Japan, I've definitely noticed my skills at English changing in alarming ways. The first to go were my college-level reading skills, something I realized with a shock while thumbing through a graduate school catalog less than a year after graduating from SDSU and coming to Japan to teach English as a Second Language. Teaching ESL is especially challenging since you're surrounded with students who speak very simple English, and in order to make yourself understood you find yourself talking more slowly, perhaps, or pronouncing the "t" sound in "party" more than a native speaker would. When you go for months or years without hearing English vocabulary words above the Junior High School level, the brain can have real difficulties pulling difficult words like "irreplaceable" or "gynecologist" out on short notice. But it's really shocking when you make an actual mistake, which happened to me once when my family and I were in the U.S. In Japanese the words for splinter (a sliver of wood) and thorn (the prickly things on a rosebush) are the same, toge (TOH-gay), and once, when my daughter got a splinter in her foot, I got the two words confused in my head. When my mother heard me asking to help get the "thorn" out of my daughter's foot with tweezers she looked at me funny.

How Japan Deals with War: Anime?

Japan's defeat in World War II was a huge emotional blow to the country which is still felt today. Although more than sixty years have passed, the subject of the war is still in many ways "taboo," and not discussed very often outside of certain specific situations. (Kind of reminds me of growing up in the 1970s and asking what that Vietnam War thing was all about...no one seemed to want to tell me.) One interesting mechanism the Japanese have evolved to allow them to deal with the subject of war has been an unlikely one: animation. While the traditional image of a "soldier" used to be tied to black and white photographs from the historical Pacific War, this has changed somewhat after three decades of popular culture in which the idea of "war" was more likely to be defined in sci-fi terms, such as the One Year War of the original Mobile Suit Gundam series, in which spacenoids living in orbital colonies fight for independence from Earth. While it's not generally possible for Japanese to wax romantic about the real war, which they lost, you can probably find fans within a certain age range who could tell you about the First Battle of Jaburo between Char Aznable-lead Zeon forces and the Federation in great detail, or a Space Battleship Yamato fan who can get misty-eyed about the Battle of Saturn, when dozens of Andromeda-class battleships were destroyed by the Comet Empire. If you asked Japanese who they considered the most respected "military heroes" of the country were, you might find some who would answer Amuro Rei or Bright Noah or Captain Okita/Captain Avatar, the legendary characters from these war-oriented anime series. It's not unlike the original Star Trek, which was able to tell stories about race relations and other difficult topics that couldn't be discussed in the 1960s unless they were disguised as science fiction tales far off into the future.

Words are Interesting Things

Like Cherry Blossoms in the Spring, words are fleeting things, and it can be surprising how their meanings change when they're imported into other languages. Many of the English words the Japanese use don't match up perfectly with their Japanese counterparts. When I had to replace a cooling fan in one of our Macs, I went to the local computer store ("Power Up Computing Life") and asked for a fan, using the English word, guessing correctly that the modern electronic concept of a fan would be covered by the English word. Other concepts that we use the word "fan" for go by very different names in Japanese, such as senpuuki (an electric fan), uchiwa (a fan you use to fan yourself, non-folding) and sensu (a traditional folding Chinese style fan). There are some other English words that the Japanese use, but only in limited ways. If there's a girl you're secretly in love with, a Japanese might advise you to "attack" her (meaning, go and win her love). The English word "camouflage" often refers to a gay man and woman marrying to hide this fact from others. And the English word "propose" is used in Japan only to mean a proposal of marriage, which certainly presents the potential for confusion in international work settings.

Space Invaders

I happened to see that this month marks the 30th anniversary of the venerable "Invader Game," what Space Invaders is called in Japan. This was one of the most influential video games ever released, with many innovative features for its era, including being the first game to introduce the element of competition by recording the day's high scores. For me personally, Space Invaders represents no less than the point in history when just about everything cool started to come from Japan. While the Golden Age of coin-operated video games would still see plenty of innovative releases from American companies over the next few years, it wouldn't take long for icons like Mario, Link and friends to win the hearts of gamers everywhere, for the first time creating a generation that looked to Japan as a major source of its popular culture of choice. Japanese influence would continue to be felt everywhere, starting with the tired lineup of after-school cartoons which were really ready for a smack-down, through the world of American comic books, and all the way to Hollywood. Now, it's almost impossible to separate the ways in which Japan has influenced the world we live in, and to me, it all started with that simple, fun Invader Game.

Fixating on Japanese Phrases and Kanji

One interesting side effect of studying a foreign language like Japanese is finding yourself naturally fixating on various aspects of the language as kakko ii, or "cool." While learning Japanese I found myself liking certain phrases or kanji, like the flowing character for hashiru (to run), which is quite fun to write, or the mystery of the word ku-no-ichi, written with three kana characters from the kanji for woman and meaning "femal e ninja." In Japanese there are quite a few four-character compound words imported from China centuries ago, which are interesting because they express highly poetic ideas, like jinba-ittai, a slogan adopted by Mazda which means "man and horse as one." If you watch anime, you already know some of these kanji-based idioms, such as ikki tousen, which literally means "one knight who is a match for 1000 enemies," i.e., really strong; or tenchi muyo, written with the characters for heaven + earth + no need, although its meaning is somewhat less elegant, since it's what they print on boxes to represent "this end up." One of these compound words I found myself drawn to during my studies was issho kenmei (ee-SHO ken-may), written with characters that mean "to put one's only life on the line," which in everyday use means to try very hard, to do something with all one's might. It encapsulates the Japanese ethic of working hard, whether it's beating your rival team at sports, studying hard and getting into a good university, or showing diligence to your boss and coworkers at work. Perhaps the most famous symbol of being issho kenmei about something is the traditional Japanese hachimaki headbands, which are worn by anyone who is fired up with passion for something, for example high school students studying for their university entrance exams, new employees in a company opening ceremony, volunteers at a political rally, and so on. We just happen to have a great selection of these traditional headbands -- check them out now!

Linguistics Land Mines in English and Japanese

If English is your native language, call up our parents and thank them now, because you've got it good. Japanese students learning English face an uphill battle on several fronts, not the least of which being the complex range of sounds they have to master if they want to be understood by anyone. Linguistically speaking, there are twelve vowels in most dialects of American English, with sounds like the schwa and the way New Yorkers pronounce "coffee" counting as separate vowels. One way Japanese learners can differentiate the various sounds in their minds is by memorizing "minimal pairs," sets of words that sound similar, such as walk and work, close and clothes, or election and, well, you know, that other word. I remember wondering why some of my former students would go out of their way to use "will not" as opposed to "won't" -- it turned out that they lacked confidence that the word wouldn't be mis-heard as want. There are pairs of words in Japanese that manage to give foreigners trouble too, and just about every expat living in Japan can tell about the time they really screwed up by using the wrong word in a delicate situation. Some of these tricky word pairs include kirei (kee-REY), meaning "pretty" or "clean," which is easily confused with kirai (ki-RAI), meaning "hated," as well as kawaii (KAH-WAH-ee), which means "cute," and kowai (ko-WA-ee), meaning "scary."

Japan and Brazil: the Emperor Comes to our Prefecture

The Emperor of Japan made a visit to our fine prefecture of Gunma on Monday, stopping by a community of Brazilian-Japanese citizens who worked at a large Sanyo plant. He was there with his wife, Gunma-born Empress Michiko, to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the beginning of immigration between Japan and Brazil, when a ship from Kobe departed with 791 Japanese farmers in search of a better life there. During the first half of the 20th century, hundreds of thousands of Japanese resettled in Brazil and neighboring countries, and many of their descendents have returned to Japan, forming one of the largest ethnic groups here. The town of Oizumi, about 30 km from J-List, has the highest official foreign population in the country (10%), although everyone knows that the real number about double that when people without valid visas are taken into account. It was quite a special event to have the Emperor in our neck of the woods, so naturally everyone dropped what they were doing to go try to get a glimpse of him, causing huge traffic jams everywhere.

Japanese Memory Tricks

Quick, what's the square root of five? I have no idea, but my wife knows: it's 2.2360679. How about the Periodic Table of Elements? My wife can recite the first dozen or so. Do you know what year the Kamakura Bakufu, the first military government in Japan, was established? She tells me that it was the year 1192. This isn't because she's especially smart -- like all Japanese she has a tendency to be self-effacing and regularly calls herself baka, or stupid. No, the reason she knows these tidbits of knowledge is because of the way Japanese memorize some forms of information, by converting it into easily learned phrases, which is called goro-awase. Through a mechanism few gaijin can really understand, numbers are easily mapped to syllables in Japanese, for example the "ee" sound can stand for ichi (one), and "yo" or "shi" for the number four, and "o" for zero. To conjure up the square root of five in the example above, my wife needs only to remember a phrase meaning "at the base of Mt. Fuji, a parrot cries" (Fuji-sanroku ni ohmu naku). Back in the late 1980s, the U.S. was going through a period of serious Japan envy, when just about everything from the country seemed to be perfect, especially the much-vaunted education system, and at least a small reason the Japanese were beating us on international standardized tests was because of these little mnemonic tricks. Of course, breaking information down into easy-to-digest chunks or memorizing by association are great ways to study more effectively. If you're looking for some innovative ways to learn Japanese, be sure to view our study pages for some good ideas.

The FUN Way to Learn Japanese

There are many approaches to learning a foreign language -- the Army Method (stress on learning through memorization), the Grammar Translation Method (learning a language by parsing its grammar), the Communicative Method (leaning by speaking and listening in the target language), and the Natural Approach (trying to replicate the steps that children go through when they learn a language). Then there's the "get attention" method, which I'll label the Social Feedback Method to give it a proper name. Basically, you learn whatever vocabulary and phrases that will make you the life of the party among your target linguistic group, be it fun ways to begin conversations with attractive Japanese girls or memorizing interesting phrases that will amuse people around you, like esoteric proverbs they don't expect foreigners to know. I have a friend who worked his way across Asia using this method, learning just enough of the local languages to be social and have fun with his hosts, and it seems to have worked very well for him. Bottom line, when you study a foreign language, make sure to keep your eye on the "fun" aspects of that language.

The Progenitors of the Otaku

The word otaku is a formal term meaning "you" or "your family" which acquired its alternate meaning of "obsessed fanboy" after a magazine article critical of the rising underground culture of anime and doujinshi (fan-created comics) first used the term in 1983. While the most common forms of otaku are fans who are devoted to anime and manga, there's no limit to the varieties of popular culture that can be encompassed with this word, and I've known karaoke otaku who sing for hours on end, a perfume otaku with more than 100 bottles in her collection, and an R/C otaku in our neighborhood who's been flying his airplanes in a nearby field every Sunday for a decade now. Still, although we otaku have a lot of fun with our anime figures and our life-sized anime hug pillows, the true progenitors of fanatical hobby culture would have to be the railroad fans, generally called densha mania in Japanese, a term for anyone with a deep interest in railroad culture and who enjoy taking pictures of or riding on different trains. Japan's history with railfans is long, with the first magazines for the genre appearing in the 1920s, although the hobby really took off in the 1960s and 70s as people acquired more time for leisure. One of the most famous rail aficionados is children's author Kenji Miyazawa, who brought his imagination and love of trains together in his famous story Night of Galactic Railroad, a tale about a train that flies through space.

The last word on otaku, the awesome anime Genshiken, about a college anime and visual culture club. I cannot recommend it enough. 

Ryoma Sakamoto, the Che Guevara of Japan

Over the weekend I took my son up to the mountains for some quality onsen (volcanic hot springs) bathing, one of my favorite activities in Japan. As I've written before, virtually all public baths and hot springs here have signs saying that customers with tattoos are not allowed in, which is done to promote a "family friendly" atmosphere and keep scary yakuza gangsters away. Of course people with casual tattoos on their bodies regularly ignore these signs, which was the case with a man I happened to see who had a really awesome tattoo on his arm: the face of Ryoma Sakamoto. One of the "founding fathers" of modern Japan, Ryoma was a samurai from the small Japanese island of Shikoku who embraced the slogan sonno joi (Respect the Emperor and Expel the Foreign Barbarians), rallying around the Emperor, who had been a figurehead of Japanese rule for most of the past 2000 years, and against the Tokugawa military government. Fearing that any battle that resulted in a large loss of life among Japanese soldiers would see Japan colonized by foreign powers, he made a master plan to force the Shogun to surrender power by bringing the the rival clans of Satsuma and Choshu (modern day Kagoshima and Yamaguchi) together in a military alliance. Although he was fighting against the influence of the U.S. and Britain on his country, he readily adopted Western technology, carrying a Smith and Wesson revolver and wearing boots as opposed to normal samurai footwear, popularizing both. Sadly, Ryoma was assassinated by members of the Shinsengumi, a group of pro-Tokugawa samurai, a month after achieving his victory. Today Ryoma is a very popular figure in modern Japan, a combination of Che Guevara and George Washington rolled into one. And certainly worthy of a tattoo.

How Japanese Sound Word (onomatopoeia) Can Change a Gaijin

One of the surprising things about living in a country like Japan is, is how you can get used to the local giseigo, literally "mimic-voice words," also known as onomatopoeia. To English speakers, dogs go "bark" of "woof" and cats "meow," but of course these are different in Japanese, where a small dog makes sounds like kyan kyan but a larger dog sounds like wan wan, and cats say nya nya. A rooster may cock-a-doodle-doo in English, but in Japanese he makes the sound keko-koko, and while the Japanese manga called Gao! might sound odd to you, everyone here understands it as a dinosaur or a lion roaring. The extent to which you can become accustomed to this differerent system of sound words is amazing, proving that the brain really can accept and adapt to anything.

Patriotism, Japan Style and Kimigayo

I've written before about how the question of "patriotism" in modern Japan is a tricky one. In the U.S. we have many opportunities to show our patriotic spirit, enjoying hot dogs and fireworks on the Fourth of July or saying "oo" and "ah" as we take in an air show at a nearby military base. However, it's quite difficult for the average Japanese person to enjoy this experience. The sad fact is that many of the traditional symbols of the country, from the Japanese flag on up, are often associated either with Japan's wartime past or with modern-day right-wing extremists who drive around in speaker cars playing World War II songs like idiots. The official national anthem is another sticky spot. Written in 1880, Kimigayo (warning: sound link) is a brief, solemn anthem based on a poem from the Nara Period which calls for the Emperor's reign to last for eight thousands years, until the pebbles grow into boulders with moss growing off of them. Although that sounds very militaristic to us today, it was originally written as a Japanese version of God Save the Queen, and nothing more. Recently the government has been trying to force teachers to sing the song during school events, but there's been a lot of opposition to this on the grounds of protecting freedom of expression. What would you do to bring a reasonable sense of patriotism to Japanese young people?

Duality in Japan: Shrine Water and KFC

When you live in a place as different from the U.S. or Europe as Japan is, you have to get used to some changes, and something that I kept noticing back when I first arrived here was the great "duality" the country kept presenting me with. This tendency for things to divide into two contradicting halves goes beyond the obvious mix of old-and-new, of highly advanced electronics co-existing beside an old guy who drives around in a truck selling stone-baked sweet potatoes on the road, or drinking water from a centuries-old Shinto shrine to wash down the KFC you just had for lunch. One source of this perceived duality is the kanji writing system used by the Japanese, which usually has two readings or each character, the original Chinese one (the on reading) and the Japanese one (the kun reading). As a general rule, characters appearing by themselves will use the Japanese reading, for example words like ki (tree) or mizu (water), but compound words will use the more complex Chinese one, e.g. mokusei (wood + produce = made of wood) or suido (water + road = water pipe). This neat little system goes out the window when it comes to writing names for places or people, though, making it nearly impossible to accurately pin down the correct way to pronounce a kanji name without getting it wrong at least once. Since there are two answers to "how do I read this kanji?" and neither one is entirely wrong, it can all make your brain feel like it's being pulled in two different directions.

The Honesty You Find in Japan

One of the nice things about living in Japan is the honesty and integrity people generally possess. A couple weeks ago, some friends and I went to the Park Hyatt in Tokyo to drink in the bar from Lost in Translation, intending to try the whiskey that Bill Murray's character advertised in the film. We accidentally ordered the wrong drink, choosing a $29-per-glass high-end whiskey, but our waiter steered us to the actual drink used in the film, which was only $19 per glass. This impressed me since he could have said nothing and gotten a larger bar tab. When fast hikari fiber (fiber optic) Internet finally came to our part of the city, I was so overjoyed I was ready to sign up for the most expensive dedicated line they had. Instead of selling me the costlier service, the NTT salesman talked me out of it, telling me that the standard shared line would be more than fast enough for us -- and he was right. Then there was the time I was shopping for a Minolta camera, the old kind with the silly pre-programmed cards that enabled certain camera effects. I was ready to buy a bunch of these optional cards with the camera, but the salesman at the store shook his head, telling me that they weren't worth the money, losing an additional sale but certainly gaining my trust.

Mitsukoshi, the 400+ Year Old Department Store, and Other Happy News

It's a day for congratulations in Japan. The mega department store chains Mitsukoshi and Isetan are getting married, formally tying the knot in a merger that should see a combined sales of the two store chains reach $15 billion this year. The news appeals to my history-challenged American brain because Mitsukoshi has been around since 1673, when Takatoshi Mitsui opened a kimono shop in Edo (Tokyo). He brought many innovations to the business world back in those days, introducing the first customer-friendly retail shop with pre-made products sold at clearly labeled prices, an improvement over the then-common custom of making products in a customer's home after an order was received. His lowly shop would eventually blossom into the Mitsui zaibatsu (business conglomerate), involved in everything from shipping to to mining and founding Japan's first private bank -- not bad. There's some other happy news in Japan today: in Sapporo a chimpanzee named Gacha has given birth to a baby chimp. The surprising thing is Gacha's advanced age: 41 years old, or over 70 in chimpanzee years. Mother and child are reportedly doing fine.

On the Japanese Custom of Taking Responsibility

One concept you encounter quite a lot in Japan is sekinin (seh-kee-neen), meaning responsibility or duty. While the James Clavell cliches of Japanese who are bound by the bushido-esque code of honor aren't very accurate when applied to the country today, I have noticed that the idea of sekinin o toru, or taking responsibility for something, does seem to be an important aspect of the Japanese character. This can take many forms, with one of the most visible being the way students take responsibility for cleaning their own classrooms, including the toilets. Virtually all cleaning in Japanese schools is done by the students, who must learn to either take pride in their cleaning skills or study in a dirty classroom. The idea of sekinin is important in a business environment, too, and when some new job presents itself to us at here at J-List, I'm always interested in the way our Japanese staff divides the work into logical sections and assigns different parts to each person, so everyone knows who's in charge of what. Having a person's name associated with a job is one way to create a sense of pride, and in restaurants it's common to see a little clipboard hanging in the restroom indicating which employee has last cleaned, so everyone knows who is or isn't doing his job properly if there's a problem. I often wonder whether some of these little innovations might not be imported back to the West?

Japanese PTA Hell

My wife is having a challenging time right now. Our daughter starts the sixth grade in April, and by unwritten tradition parents are expected to join the school's PTA leadership for a year and do various things for the school and the community at large. These include organizing the kids walking to school into groups (called han) and choosing a group leader (called hancho, where we get the word Head Honcho from) who will be responsible for the group, especially the new crop of first graders who will walk to school with the bigger kids. The PTA also signs up neighborhood parents into "flag waving brigades," who position themselves at street corners along the routes the kids walk to school and make sure the children get to school safely each morning. My wife is in charge of creating materials to be distributed to all parents of elementary school kids in our part of the city, which involves compiling Excel documents with the names of new teachers so parents can have information on the changes for the new school year. She has several assistants, but they're not much help: as a rule, many Japanese are often happy with lower levels of technical skill than you'd generally find in the U.S., and none of the housewives in the group has a computer or knows what Excel is, making a lot of extra work for her.

The Season of the Sakura has come to Japan

The Season of the Sakura has come to Japan, and all throughout the country cherry trees are exploding like beautiful fireworks. One of my favorite Japanese traditions is hanami or flower viewing, which usually involves spreading a tarp under the cherry trees and having a party with your friends, drinking lots of beer and sake while the petals fall all around you. Flower viewing has been popular in Japan since the beginning of its written history, with the first hanami recorded in the Nara period (710-784), although the word initially applied to viewing of ume or plum flowers, which are also pretty. (Flower viewing is also mentioned in the Tale of Genji.) Because the window for cherry blossom season is so narrow -- in another week the sakura will have been scattered to the four winds -- it can be difficult for people living outside Japan to plan a visit, as unseasonably colder or warmer weather can move cherry blossom viewing season up or down in the calendar. Fortunately, Japan is oriented quite vertically, so if the cherry blossom season has ended in the Tokyo area, for example, you can travel farther north and catch the flowers at their best in some other part of the country. If you're not lucky enough to be in Japan during this time of year, maybe you can still enjoy Japanese cherry blossoms, as many cities (Washington D.C., Philadelphia, Vancouver) have great spots for viewing sakura, too.

Political Deadlock in Japan: Lower Gas Prices? Oh Please, God...

The two major political parties in Japan are the ruling Liberal Democrat Party, which is conservative and friendly to big business as well as the millions of the country's small farmers; and the Democratic Party of Japan, the primary opposition group, which might be called the "anti-LDP" since they seem to exist primarily to oppose anything the ruling party puts forth, whether it's a good idea for the country or not. Now the DPJ has -- for the first time since I came to Japan as far as I can recall -- done something meaningful in the political stage, which may result in a break at the pump for drivers here. Unable to to change the law that requires that 100% of automobile and gasoline taxes be used for building of roads, regardless of whether or not more roads are needed, they were at least able to block a law renewing the "temporary" higher gasoline tax that's been in place for 30+ years. The result is that the price of gasoline may be dropping by around 25 cents a liter, from its current price of around $1.50 per liter (or $5.80 a gallon, ack). The Japanese economy is quite addicted to public works, though, and a lot of politicians are voicing concerns that the economies of rural areas will suffer if the gas tax rate isn't reinstated, so the LDP plans to return the tax rate at the end of April using its two-thirds majority, meaning that our lower gas prices might only last a month. It's funny that at no time does the subject of increasing the efficiency of government or finding ways to do a little more with a little less, enter the political debate. It's considered sho ga nai -- "it can't be helped" -- that the government will waste a certain amount of public resources and build a certain amount of roads that no one will use, and no one can do anything about it.

The Special Relationship Gaijin Have With McDonald's

Like most other expats living in Japan, I've got a special relationship with...McDonald's. Back when I was getting used to life here, it was a place to go where things were familiar and you didn't need to stress out about what to order or what social rules to worry about while eating it. Although it's probably no one's favorite dining destination, it's at least well within the comfort zone. Plus, the company does do a few things right here, like offering salads as an option in place of french fries, and 100% orange juice rather than the orange-colored sugar water they sell to kids in the States. During the time I've been in Japan, McDonald's has reflected the larger economy in interesting ways, for example leading the charge to cut prices during the period of deflation in the early 2000's, and struggling to manage the BSE scare with images of parents enjoying quality time with their kids over a hamburger. For the past year or so, the company has been winning big with its "Mega Mac" offering, essentially a Big Mag with four patties, which would have been unthinkable just a few years ago before the shift in eating habits. During limited product trials, the Mega Mac sold millions of units, and is will soon be added as a permanent menu item. While this is good for the company, who saw profits soar, I'm certainly concerned about the future health of consumers here. On the other hand, writing about this subject has made me so hungry I could really go for a Mega McTeriyaki Burger, which the company is also introducing.

More Instant Japanese Words from English Ones

Last time I talked about words in English that happen to have meaning in Japanese, too. We keep coming up with more of these odd linguistic coincidences at the J-List office: some others include include hen which means "strange" in Japanese; "you know me" which is a cup for drinking green tea (yunomi); "come on" which sounds like the word for a family crest (kamon); "safe," similar to the word for "government" (seifu); and "she knew" which is Japanese for "to die." Another such English word that's close in pronunciation to a Japanese one is the letter "E", which sounds like the word ii ("ee"), the most common way to express "good" or "okay." If you want to compliment someone on the quality of something or show your liking for something, you can throw out the letter "E" and it will probably be understood, thanks to the Japanese custom of omitting the subject whenever possible. (Note: food that tastes good uses a different word, oishii). But the Japanese language is nothing if not vague, and the word ii often carries the opposite meaning. If someone offers you coffee, for example, or the convenience store clerk asks if you want your bento warmed in the microwave, replying with ii will usually mean something close to "No, I'm fine." When dealing with marketers, it's important to make sure you don't answer them in vague terms, as they'll be happy to to misunderstand you and sign you up for a year's supply of salmon from Hokkaido.

The Story of the "Homeless Junior High School Student"

Do you know the story of the "homeless junior high school student"? When Hiroshi Tamura was was just ten, his mother died of an illness, which was a terrible shock to his family. A bigger surprise was in store five years later, however, when Hiroshi and his older brother and sister arrived home to find their house repossessed. Their father appeared soon after, explaining the situation: the family was penniless and had lost everything. "So we'll all go our separate ways now. Family, dismissed!" Determined not to drop out of school, he moved to a nearby park where he lived, sleeping on a sliding board for several months, eating rice when he could get it and cardboard boxes when he couldn't and washing himself with rain water. Through hard work, he was eventually able to graduate from high schoo, and now he's part of a successful Japanese comedian duo called Kirin. When he mentioned his sad experiences on the air once, an editor saw it and suggested he write a book about it. Homuresu Chugakusei became a huge hit, selling more than 2 million copies in Japan and spawning a movie deal. The story of a young person who's able to be thankful for something that we all take for granted -- the availability of hot water -- really struck a chord with modern Japanese readers.

My Scary Yakuza Experience in Kyoto

I'll tell you about the scariest thing to happen to be since coming to Japan. I'm a big fan of public baths and hot springs, and I learned early on that you can travel around Japan cheaply by staying at "saunas," which are 24-hour public baths that also offer traditional saunas as well as a communal room for customers to sleep in. They're cheap, costing around $30 to stay in the heart of a large city, and it can be fun to strike up conversations with the other patrons, who are often so surprised to see a gaijin in a place like that that they'll buy you a beer. All public baths, hot springs and saunas post signs that forbid customers with tattoos from entering, which is intended to keep yakuza (Japanese mafia) out of family-friendly establishments. The first time I went to Kyoto, I thought it'd be fun to stay in a sauna, but I hadn't realized at the time that Kyoto is a hotbed of these yakuza types, and the sauna I'd decided to stay at was filled to the brim with scary-looking gangsters with full-body tattoos and various scars all over their bodies. I tried to make the best of the situation, pretending not to notice the scary looks I was getting while I took in my surroundings. It was easy to pick out which man was the oyabun (yakuza boss), since he was the one getting his back washed vigorously by his underlings (kobun), who fell over themselves to do anything he wanted. Incidentally, if you have a tattoo you can still come to Japan: the signs aren't directed at you, and non-yakuza Japanese with tattoos just ignore the rule, too. (Incidentally, J-List stocks several cool magazines of Japanese tattoos if you're interested.)

Amaze Your Friends with Instant Japanese!

Languages overlap each other in interesting ways, and it's always fun to observe these accidental similarities, like how casa means "house" in Spanish but "umbrella" in Japanese. It's even possible to pick up some useful phrases by focusing on the words you already know, not unlike the way "Don't touch my moustache" happens to sound similar to doh-itashimashite, or "you're welcome" in Japanese. Here are some ready-to-use phrases of Japanese that happen to sound like English words you already know:

Cheek show!	Damn! (chikusho)
Psycho!	That's great! (saiko)
Bimbo	Poor, no money (binbo)
Ohio	Good morning (ohayo)
Show you	soy sauce (shoyu)
Oh, you	hot water (o-yu)
Never never	sticky (like natto, fermented soybeans)
"E"	good, ok (ii)
Cow	buy (kau)

Amaze your friends!

Spring Vacation! Time to Think About Serious Studying

Spring vacation is finally here, and all through Japan children are getting ready to enjoy a well deserved two week holiday. This year is special for our family, because my son will be entering Junior High School in April, which is a big change. First of all, all Junior High students are compelled to join a school club like baseball club, karate club, art club and so on, and engage in bukatsu ("club activities") for several hours a day. My son likes music and has decided to join the school's wind orchestra club, which will be practicing into the evening three days a week. After spending time with club members, many students will then go to juku, evening school where students study for 2-3 more hours. While a lot of students attend these night schools because their friends are there, those who want to go to a good university start their power-studying at this time, attending a night school until 10 pm or so then coming home for a spot of dinner before studying even more. We're having a family debate right now over which course we want to pursue for my son. My wife is sure he'll need to attend night school every evening just to keep up with his studies and to prepare for his upcoming entrance exams for high school, since there's a lot of competition for the school he wants to go to. I'm of the opinion that family should come before cramming useless knowledge into the brain for a test that's three years off, but that's just me...

(This is an ad for a juku that promises to get you into your university of choice.)

I'm Sorry Dave

Couldn't have said it better...

More about "Enryo" as a Window into Japanese Society

I talked recently about the concept of enryo, one of the most important aspects of social relationships in Japan. It literally means "to refrain from [doing]" and describes the tendency of Japanese people to be reserved around others, especially people they don't know well. If I had to pick, I'd say it's probably the single most important "ingredient X" that makes Japanese who they are. If you've ever noticed a Japanese person avoiding stating their own preferences or opinions without seeing what others think first, or watched a Japanese athlete make a very modest comment about a big win, you've seen enryo in action. You can also observe this phenomenon at a karaoke box, where groups can rent a private room and sing together. The first 15-30 minutes of a karaoke session usually involves shy Japanese people saying "no, you sing first!" "oh no, after you" without anyone jumping in, except for gaijin who don't know any better as they belt out "You wa shock!" (the opening from the Fist of the North Star theme song). While showing constraint and consideration for others certainly has its place, especially in a country with half the population of the U.S. crammed into an area 1/25 the size, it can be annoying, too. First of all, too much politeness is the "kiss of death" when it comes to making friends, and it seems the only way to make friends here is to willfully ignore some of the rules about what you should or shouldn't do in certain situations. Also, the Japanese can take the concept of hesitation too far. I had a Japanese friend in the U.S. who lived with us for a while, and he was trying so hard not to inconvenience us he had quite the opposite effect. We'd ask what he'd like for breakfast, and he'd say, "Oh, I'm not hungry. I'm still full from dinner last night."

Drinking in Tokyo Report

I had fun over the weekend, heading into Tokyo to go drinking with some friends. We hit the "Lost in Translation" bar at the Park Hyatt to soak up the atmosphere of the city from a high altitude, then went down in the trenches for some serious pub crawling. Although there's no shortage of drinking districts in Tokyo, with Roppongi, Shibuya, and Ginza all offering their own particular charms, we decided to visit Shinjuku's east side and see what trouble we could get into. I don't know how New Yorkers cut loose on a Saturday night, but I was amazed to see the incredible number of people roaming around the streets with us in Shinjuku -- there had to have been 50,000 or more walking around us, letting off the steam that had accumulated over the week. I took my friends into the Kabuki-cho region of the city, just about the only place in Tokyo were you might not feel safe, and it was fun to check out the neon gaudiness then leave for someplace more pleasant. One of the great benefits of cities that use trains as much as Tokyo does is the ability for large numbers of people to get around without driving, especially good when so many are inebriated. I introduced my friends to my favorite Japanese drinks, the Lemon Sour and Grapefruit Sour, essentially shochu in a glass with soda water and a fresh lemon or grapefruit that you squeeze to get juice to flavor the drink. The next day I did some sightseeing around Tokyo with my friends, doing normal Tokyo things like taking pictures of Goth-Loli cosplayers at the traditional Meiji Shrine. It was fun, but I was reminded of another aspect of living in Tokyo: you have to walk everywhere, running up and down stairs and rushing to catch trains before they depart.

And here are some pictures of my trip to Tokyo:

This is Hachiko, the most famous dog in Japan. Like, ever.

At the California Bar in Tokyo. Nice place.

"For relaxing times, make it Suntory time."

A view of the lights. The building on the right is Tokyo City Hall. I wished I had had my Blade Runner soundtrack on my iPhone.

This is a Lemon Sour. I would so lover for these to become popular in the U.S.

Entertaining pretty Japanese girls near us.

Store my Ducks!

This is Meiji Shrine.

And these are the Gothic Lolitas we met there.

Good Things About Japan, and Lost In Translation

There are many good things about living in Japan. For one thing, it's a world of potentially endless mystery, where stepping out your front door can be an experience worthy of Lost in Translation, potentially confusing but in a wonderful way. Many Japanese are obsessive about their own particular hobbies, and if you have a passion for, say, anime, doujinshi, martial arts or building robots, you'll probably find like-minded people who understand where you're coming from here. Gaijin in Japan certainly stand out a lot, which can be good or bad, depending on whether you're talking about school kids staring at you as if you were a yeti or waking up to find a girl's phone number scrawled on a chopstick wrapper from last night. Yet like any other country, Japan is not without its imperfections. Japan is a kanji country, and you never know for sure which road signs or train maps will feature English, making it a challenge to do certain things here if you don't read Japanese (although picking up reading skills is honestly not that difficult). Another downside is allergy season, thanks to the visionary Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, which decided that it'd be a great idea to standardize on exactly one type of tree for forestry in Japan, the sugi or Japan Cedar. When these trees start to pollinate, millions of Japanese come down with terrible hayfever. It gets so bad there are actually "pollen forecasts" on TV to tell you when it's safe to go outside or hang clothes out to dry. Right now we've got a double-whammy of cedar pollen and kohsa, the "yellow sand" that blows over from China, making it impossible to keep your car clean.

History of Buddhism and, My Daughter Sees Dead People

The history of Buddhism in Japan is long, going back to the very beginning of the country's historical age, since Buddhism and kanji were imported together and are inseparable from Japanese culture. The religion was introduced to Japan either in 467 A.D. from China, according to a Chinese account, or 552 A.D. through Korea, according to the Nihon Shoki, one of the oldest historical documents from inside Japan. While one might think that Japan would have a feeling of brotherhood with other Buddhist countries such as Thailand or Tibet, in reality the local flavor of Buddhism is so different that I don't think there's much of a connection. There's a special time of year in the spring and fall called Ohigan (oh-he-gahn), literally "the other shore," a time for people to visit their parents' homes for a good dinner, then light a stick of incense in memory of family members who have died (who have gone to the other shore). Last night my father-in-law visited his relatives and took my daughter with him, since she wanted to visit the grave of her grandfather's side of the family. My daughter has a reputation in our family for being very spiritual, and she caused a stir when she told everyone that she could see a flowing white figure standing near the Buddhist altar. Maybe she had reached out to the other shore?

Meet Doraemon, Japan's New Anime Ambassador

Japan has a new ambassador, and it's...Doraemon? Yes, the well-known robot cat from the future has been designated as the official Goodwill Ambassador for Anime Culture in a ceremony held yesterday at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Recent years have seen a growing awareness on the part of the Japanese government that anime, manga, video games and related culture were making a significant contribution to Japan's image in the world, and the government is using the famous character to try to improve relations with the nearby countries of Asia, where Doraemon is a household name. I totally agree that popular culture is a great basis for communication between people, a thought that occurred to me when my daughter was three years old and hadn't learned English yet, although she had no problem communicating with my American nephew because both could speak "Pokemon." There's no word if Ambassador Doraemon will be using official government transportation when he makes his goodwill visits, or if he'll be making use of his Dokodemo Door (Go Anywhere Door), one of the futuristic devices he can pull out of his fourth-dimensional pocket.

Slow Simmer: Outside Influences on Japan

Although it'd be a stretch to call a homogeneous country like Japan a "melting pot," modern Japanese society does represent an enormous number of different outside influences over time. Some examples include the arrival of Buddhism and the kanji writing system in the 6th century A.D., the adoption of Confucianism as the official philosophy of Japan during the Edo Period, the era of rapid modernization and "empire envy" of Great Britain during the Meiji Period, and a total rebuilding of the nation by the Allies after World War II, which left its mark on the Japanese people in the form of the "peace" sign they make whenever someone pulls out a camera. Without a doubt, two factors that have helped to make Japan such a mysterious place when seen from the outside are its status as an island nation, which allowed the country to develop culturally at its own pace, slowly internalizing the various outside influences and making them uniquely Japanese, and the long period of sakoku ("closed country"), when almost no information was allowed into Japan from the outside, surely unprecedented in history.

And here we have...a lovely woodblock painting from the Battle of Port Arthur during the Russo-Japan War. Is anyone else amazed that there are ukiyoe from events that are just a century old? I had no idea...

My Recent Maid Cafe Experience

The next time you're in Japan, I suggest you check out the maid cafes that can be found mostly around Akihabara, the center for all things related to electronics, anime and fun geeky cosplay culture. I went with some friends last weekend and we had a great experience. In addition to regular menu items like curry rice, pasta and "hamberg steak," the menu lets you choose different "performances" by the maids, who will do things like blow on your food and feed it to you like a baby, or play a game of darts with you. I opted to have one of the maids draw Doraemon on my Om-Rice (an omelette eaten over flavored rice, it's heavenly) in ketchup, while a friend in our group challenged one of the maids to a drinking contest: if he could down his mug of beer faster than she could finish her iced tea, he'd get to take a picture with her, but if she won, she'd get to slap him hard across the face. He lost, and it was great fun to see him endure the slap by the pretty maid (what the hell, there are worse things that could happen to a guy). Another feature you can find in some of these maid cafes are special cosplay events in which the staff will dress up as characters from your favorite anime, like a Cat Girl Cafe where all the girls will transform into"wolf girls" for one week only, to allow customers with an obsession for girls with furry ears and bushy tails to get some special attention.

Famous Japanese Sometimes Beget Famous Japanese

Who's your daddy? While Japan as a society is very much a meritocracy, with success largely going to those who study the hardest and get into the best universities, sometimes having a famous father or mother can give your career a boost, a phenomenon called nana-hikari in Japanese, in case anyone ever asks. Quite a few of the "talents" you see regularly on TV have famous parents, like Kazushige Nagashima, son of baseball legend Shigeo Nagashima of the Tokyo Giants, or JPOP singer Utada Hikaru, whose mother was a well-known enka singer. Lately, it seems you can't turn on the TV without seeing children of famous politicians, like Kotaro Koizumi, the oldest son of former Japanese Prime Minister Junichiro Koizumi, who was able to turn his ikemen (EE-keh-men), or Tiger Beat-esque good looks, into a successful acting career. Another staple on TV these days is Yoshizumi Ishihara, son of Tokyo mayor and author of "The Japan that can say No" Shintaro Ishihara, who is an accomplished weatherman and appears in a wide range of TV dramas and variety shows, and occasionally, beer commercials.

The Way Smells Bring Out Memories

It's funny how different senses can bring out different memories. With Easter approaching, my mother sent us a care package of Easter candy from the States, which I shared with the J-List staff. When Yasu smelled the jellybeans I gave him (they were the "spiced" kind) he said, "Wow, this is what shopping malls in America smell like." Interesting, I'd never made this particular connection, but he might be right. Once I brought back some Mr. Bubble for my kids, and my son observed, "This smells like America." One of the first things I did when I arrived in Japan was head to a Seven-Eleven, since that's what Americans do, where I happened to buy a pack of gum called No Time, which brushes your teeth for you when you have no time to brush. Ever since then, I can't chew this gum without becoming extremely natsukashii (nostalgic) about those bygone days.

Hayao Miyazaki: The Tezuka Osamu of Japan. Oh wait...

Hayao Miyazaki is the animator and director that's brought so many wonderful films to the world, from Totoro to Kiki's Delivery Service to Spirited Away and many more. He was born in Tokyo during World War II, and his fascination with airplanes began early, as his family owned a factory that built rudders for Zero fighters. His mother became ill with tuberculosis and had to be treated over several years, making the events of My Neighbor Totoro somewhat autobiographical. As an animator, he delved deep into classical literary sources to come up with his amazing stories, for example creating Nausicaa from a Greek princess seen in Homer's Odyssey and a classical Japanese tale from the Heian Period about a headstrong princess who dared go out without blackening her teeth (which was very big back then) and who loved insects. Yesterday I finally made it down to the Ghibli Museum in Mitaka, Tokyo, and it really was a memorable experience. The museum is filled with great things to see, from sketches Mr. Miyazaki did in creating his many works to books of flora and fauna used by the animators for inspiration as they drew to a giant cat bus for kids to play in and a life-sized robot soldier from Laputa. If you ever plan to come to Japan, you positively have to go. (Just a reminder, tickets must be purchased in advance.)

Understanding How the Mind Recognizes Patterns, Eating Oden

The human mind is very good at recognizing patterns, which is why we can see floating rabbits when we look at clouds in the sky, or little bears and big dippers when we gaze up at the stars. Pattern recognition is quite important when learning a foreign language, of course, and one of the many skills your brain must acquire is the ability to make educated guesses about meaning that isn't clearly understood based on a few clues. Kind of like the time I was "randomly" picked to conduct a symphony playing Beethoven's 5th, but when I got up on stage, I didn't understand the questions the MC asked me, forcing me to make a guess about what she would likely have said and reply accordingly, all while being watched by a few hundred people. One thing I've noticed is that when the brain encounters new information, it tries to break it into familiar chunks like a computer might, but if the the information is totally alien, like an unfamiliar word or phrase of Japanese, the brain can have trouble even registering it, as if it'd heard static. Alternately, the brain may try to force unfamiliar words into similar-sounding holes, like the first time I heard the -san name suffix and was sure it means "song" because that's what my brain kept insisting. Today we're posting a rather cool sake bottle set that features the various ingredients of the traditional Japanese soup oden (oh-DEN), like tofu, boiled eggs and squid (aside: I actually married my wife partially because her mother's oden was so good). Because oden isn't very familiar to people outside Japan, however, the term might just conjure up images of the famous Norse god, despite there being no relation between the two whatsoever. Does your brain have trouble with new or unfamiliar concepts like this?

Um, Playboy Bunny Socks?

Obi-wan Kenobi said it best: a lot of the reality we perceive depends on our point of view. I've talked before about how foreign visitors to Japan are sometimes shocked -- shocked! -- to see what appear to be Nazi swastikas on maps here, but of course these are different symbols entirely, left-facing swastikas called manji that are used to denote the location of a Buddhist temple. The other day I attended a musical performance held by my son's elementary school in which the students proudly showed off their considerable brass band skills while the parents listened. After the performacne was over, I volunteered to help put the heavier instruments away, and I happened to notice that one of the female students was wearing socks with a rather famous logo embroidered on them: the iconic Playboy bunny. I'm just guessing, but I'll bet most sixth grade girls in the U.S. wouldn't have socks sporting this particular image, however in the context of Japan, the logo is just a general image of America and thus, kakko ii (cool). It's similar to the tendency of Japanese to wear funny English T-shirts with messages like "Hamburger Friend: I feel happiness when I eat him" and never consider what the words might actually mean. Not that there's anything wrong with wearing shirts with interesting phrases written in foreign languages or anything.

Why it's Fun to Build a House in Japan: Tatami Rooms!

One of the joys of being a long-term gaijin in Japan is eventually building a house here. Houses in Japan are almost never pre-built by a developer as part of a community of homes as is often the case in California, or bought "used" from people who have lived in them previously. Instead, at least outside of large cities like Tokyo where people tend to live in "mansions" (an apartment that's owned rather than rented), houses are generally built from scratch, starting with an architect who will create a design based on your specifications and budget. For a foreigner, this is a great opportunity to go crazy designing the Japanese home of your dreams, adding tatami rooms, shoji paper doors, and perhaps a toko-no-ma recessed area for displaying some ikebana flowers. Of course, houses in Japan don't go up in value like they (historically) do in the U.S. and Europe -- unless you're talking about a huge house that a movie star lived in, only land has value here -- so when you build a home you're building just for yourself and your family. Which is actually kind of nice, since your house becomes a place to live in and enjoy, rather than a potential source of stress. For the record, buying a plot of land in our prefecture, about 100 km north of Tokyo, will set you back about $100,000. For a custom-built house, budget around $300,000, although you can cut that down a bit by considering one of those "import homes" where all the materials, from wood to concrete to nails, are boxed up in Canada and shipped over by container.

All About Tokyo and What To Do Here

Tokyo is the sprawling capital of Japan, home to 12 million people, a number which rises by several million during the day as people commute to their jobs from the surrounding areas. It's not a city at all, but one of Japan's 47 prefectures, although it's got a special status as a "metropolis," not unlike the District of Columbia in the U.S. Some of the more famous areas of Tokyo include Shinjuku, a shopping and business area with many famous anime landmarks and lots of good food as well as Japan's largest bookstore; Shibuya, a hip area for young people and home of Japan's most famous dog statue; Harajuku, where people dress like they do in FRUiTs magazine; stylish Ginza, with many famous brand shops; and Asakusa, home of Tokyo's most famous shrine. People interested in anime and related culture will want to spend time in Akihabara, of course, where you can pick up the latest electronics and have it wrapped up for you by a girl in a maid costume (just kidding about that last part). For a more "off Akiba" experience, hit Nakano Broadway in Nakano, a down-and-out shopping arcade that re-invented itself to be more otaku friendly, or Otome Road, a shopping street for females interested in yaoi and BL culture, located in Ikebukuro. If you ever plan a trip to Tokyo, you'll have plenty to see!

Our "Second Childhood" Through Anime

One thing I like about being involved with Japan and anime is the "second childhood" it allows us all to enjoy. In a very real sense, a new part of your brain is "born" when you start to learn a new language, and just a children are less sophisticated than adults, that new part of yourself is closer to the intellect of a child, and just as precocious, creative and impressionable, too. Last night I was geeking out while re-re-re-watching the Macross: Do You Remember Love? movie, one of the watershed films in the development of otaku culture as a worldwide movement. My wife guffawed at me: "Why don't you at least watch something new?" She didn't understand, of course, that we all love what we're exposed to in childhood, be it X-Men comics or Scooby Doo or Star Wars, and we take it with us forever. Just as Japanese in their twenties and thirties now will always have a place in their hearts for the original Mobile Suit Gundam or Fist of the North Star because they saw it when they were young, the first shows we otaku were exposed to will always be special to us, even if we were 18 years old at the time. In the context of this exciting new language and culture, we were seishun shitemasu, or "living the springtime of our lives," a phrase I've used from time to time. What Japanese anime show is especially important to you?

Adapting to Group Culture when Living in Japan

Living in Japan has certainly made me a more considerate person, and I generally thinks of others before acting on my own personal whims. This wasn't necessarily the case when I first came to Japan, and it took me a while to pick up on the "group mentality" all around me. I remember in one of my first ESL classes, I noticed the clock in the room was wrong, so I stood on a chair to adjust it, which led to a gasp from my students. "That chair is everyone's chair! What about the next person who sits there?" one of them admonished. Japan really considers shoes to be filthy things, and because I'd stood on the chair without removing them, the faux pas I'd committed was significant. As a rule, Japanese walls are thinner, occasionally even being made out of paper in the case of tatami rooms with shoji doors (although these are not that common anymore); people here learn to make less noise, lest you cause inconvenience to other family members who might be sleeping. Another aspect of Japan's group culture is enryo, a word that means "to hesitate" or "to refrain from doing" and which is a major feature of polite Japanese relationships. While Americans might fight over the last slice of pizza, it's common for Japanese to stand there, offering the last piece to each other while its gets cold: "No, you take it. I'm full" "Oh, no, I couldn't eat another bite, you take it." The name for the last slice of pizza that no one wants to admit they really want to eat is "enryo pizza." Maybe that's the secret of how the Japanese stay so thin?

Daijobu: One of the First Words a Foreigner Learns

One of the first words a foreigner learns upon coming to Japan is daijobu (dai-JOH-boo), a very useful term which means "okay" "alright" or "no problem." It's quite a handy word since you can combine it with other words and people will understand what you mean, for example say wasabi daijobu will let the sushi chef know that it's okay to leave wasabi on your sushi, and daijobu? said as a question is very easy to say. The opposite of this word is dame (dah-MEH), meaning "no good" or "not okay." While it can be used in quite a few circumstances, dame can sound quite harsh, so a maybe consider softening it with chotto (CHO-toh, "a little") in front of it. Finally, a good work to know is kudasai (koo-dai-sai), an all purpose word that means "please [give this to me]" which has many uses from restaurants to office setitngs. Now you know some Japanese words!

 

In other news, there seems to be a U.S. band called Daijobu? Ah, the things Google tells us...

When you live in a country that's as different from the U.S. as Japan is, it's interesting to observe the many ways the "world view" of people here differs from what you're used to. There's that tendency for radio DJs to play a song and then proceed to talk over it, discussing what a good song it is or maybe reading the weather report. Or how Christmas carols are so fun to listen to, they'll be played well into February. Or the unwritten rule that Japanese never, ever touch anything under their car's hood, leaving everything up to the dealer. TV commercials are another area where you can see a lot of differences between the two countries. As a very general rule, commercials here are more about associating an image with a product rather than explaining the benefits customers receive when they purchase it. It'd be more common to see a man driving his Subaru Forrester through the mountains while an uplifting song plays than to hear a narrator telling you about new features in the latest Ford Fusion sedan. Since the Japanese market is so different from the West, it's rare to see companies using non-localized versions of their commercials here, instread creating new commercials for the local market. Some of the few companies that buck this trend are IBM, which has made dubbed versions of their "blue bar" commercials quite well known here, most of Apple's ads, since they're so simple, and AFLAC, since that darned duck is cute no matter where you come from.

 

Hm, trying to find an example of a Japanese-dubbed American commercial but that's not the kind of thing that makes it onto the web, I guess -- too vanilla. So here's a Japan-made AFLAC commercial from a few years back that made the career of Akiko Yada, a super cute video in which she sings "Think about it, money is very imporant..." with kids all around her.

Akihabara is the area of Tokyo famous for its Electric Town shopping district and for being the international "Mecca" of otaku culture. It's a popular destination with foreign visitors to Japan, and you can always tell the train has arrived there because all the gaijin will get off in a hurry. But Akiba, as it's often called, hasn't always been the Holy Land for anime geek and computer culture it is today. In 1869, after a devestating fire in the area, the Meiji Emperor ordered a temple built for prayers against future fires, which people started referring to as Akiba-sama, an unrelated Shinto/Buddhist diety believed to protect against fire, the scourge of old Japan. When the area was ordered cleared of trees to prevent further fires from reaching the more populated areas of the city, the field (hara) that resulted was named Akihabara, the Field of Autumn Leaves. The first Akihabara Station was built in 1890, and the region developed slowly over the next few decades as Tokyo's rail system expanded. Soon after World War II, shops began to open that sold items such as vacuum tubes to students attending a nearby technical school, and this formed the base of the electronics retailers that are so famous now. During the 1990s, home electronics and computers were available just about anywhere, and companies started feeling competition from mail order and later the Internet. Slowly, shops specializing in anime CDs and videos, doujinshi comics and PC dating-sim games rose in popularity, and today Akiba is as famous for its anime-related shops as it is for electronics. Now it seems that just about every new trend in Japan has something to do with Akihabara, like the latest boom, an izakaya bar for train lovers. In addition to waitresses dressed in super-cute costumes based on female rail employees, the menu is set up like a map of train lines in Tokyo. Also, while you eat a model train races around the restaurant on N-gague tracks. I'm going there the first chance I get.

 

Finally, because I'm totally geeking out right now, I'll show you the opening credits of Densha Otoko, e.g. Train Man. This is a drama about an otaku who won the heart of a beautiful girl, and the theme song is the otaku theme song, being used in the famous 1982 Daikon Opening Animation (which you can see in the upper left hand corner of this video). This video is basically the one that made Gainax possible. Enjoy!