I took a trip down to Tokyo yesterday to have a meeting with NitroPlus, the innovative company behind Steins;Gate and so many other quality games. After the meeting, I had some free time so I decided to visit a place that's like no other in Japan, Yasukuni Shrine. Established in 1867 by the Meiji Emperor to commemorate the people who died in the Boshin War (a conflict that flared up as power switched from Tokugawa Shogunate to a constitutional monarchy centered around the Emperor), Yasukuni Shrine maintains an official registry of 2.4 million Japanese who died in the service of their country, including all the soldiers who perished in World War II. As the de facto Japanese version of Arlington National Cemetery, it's a very solemn place to reflect on the soldiers who served their country...as well as horses, as there's a statue where people can make offerings to the horses that died in the war. The problem with Yasukuni, of course, is that 14 "A-class" war criminals who were responsible for so much sadness during the war are officially interred in the shrine, which means that any visits by Japanese government officials draw strong protests from the Chinese and Korean governments. (Prime Minister Abe avoided visiting the shrine entirely this year.)
Since I'd chosen to visit on August 15, the day Japan declared its surrender, I was prepared to find a battleground filled with protesters, but it wasn't that bad: there were a few scattered Korean and Chinese groups along with Taiwanese who were angry that Japan had not recognized their independence, plus a group protesting the for-profit harvesting of organs from executed prisoners in China. Inside the grounds of the shrine were some very colorful people, including very old men standing proudly in their old wartime uniforms, garden-variety Japanese nationalists (the kind who drive around in loudspeaker trucks playing war songs or the Space Battleship Yamato theme), plus one guy walking around in a full ninja costume complete with swords. In addition to the main shrine there's a history museum that focuses on World War II, and it was a very interesting place to visit, as long as you understand that the subject material is being presented from a certain point of view. You can also visit a restaurant and enjoy some of the foods from the era, including authentic "navy curry," a re-creation of the curry served on ships during WWII, and ice cold Ramune.

I made my first visit to Yasukuni Shrine yesterday.